I Got a 38-Minute Pore Peel — Here's What Actually Happened

What I Observed After 38 Minutes of Pore Peeling Last Month

Let me start with the conclusion.

Acid peeling doesn't actually reduce the pores themselves.

I'll explain why in this article.

Here's what actually makes the difference

Pore peeling uses acidic solutions to

dissolve the keratin layer.

We typically use salicylic acid (BHA) or

glycolic acid (AHA).

Unlike laser pore treatments,

pore peeling doesn't penetrate down to the dermis.

It's more about dissolving and

extracting surface keratin and sebaceous debris.

Since the depth is different, the direction of effects differs too.

Where misunderstandings commonly occur

KEY POINT OF THIS ARTICLE

Does acid peeling really reduce pores? We fact-check the temporary effects of keratin layer removal.

This is a common misconception -

when pores appear smaller after peeling,

the pores themselves haven't actually shrunk.

The sebum and keratin that were

packed inside the pores have been removed,

making the openings appear less dilated.

And when the keratin layer becomes thinner,

light reflection becomes more uniform,

making pore shadows appear lighter.

I remember a patient in her early 30s from last month

who came to us after getting 6 pore peeling sessions elsewhere,

saying "It was good at first but went back to how it was."

When I examined her skin, the keratin layer was thin but

the pore openings were still dilated.

What's tricky is that

in her case, the pores had already

structurally enlarged,

so peeling alone had its limitations.

Salicylic acid is lipophilic, so it

penetrates deep into the sebum inside pores.

We typically use it at 2% concentration,

which is close to the minimum effective

concentration for dissolving intercellular keratin.

A single procedure reduces keratin layer thickness by

approximately 10-20 micrometers,

and this state lasts 2 weeks at most,

or returns to normal in 7-10 days at the shortest.

That's why peeling needs to be done periodically

to keep sebum drainage smooth,

and when this state is maintained,

the 'cause' of pore dilation

decreases, so consequently

pores appear less prominent.

But this isn't always beneficial.

Frequent procedures can thin the skin barrier,

potentially making skin red and sensitive.

However, with proper timing and concentration,

it remains a cost-effective choice

for those with excessive sebum production.

Dr. Wi Young-jin's Key Summary


Pore peeling isn't a procedure that 'reduces' pores, but rather


one that 'clears them out and makes them appear smoother.'


Structurally enlarged pores need laser or radiofrequency treatment,


but if sebum and keratin are the problem, peeling alone can provide sufficient improvement.

This is how I categorize them in my practice

Not all pores are the same.

The approach varies depending on the cause.

I usually divide them into three categories,

though sometimes patients have a combination of two types.

For sebum/keratin type, peeling alone

often provides definitive improvement.

But for sagging type or scar type,

repeated peeling often just thins the skin

while leaving the pores unchanged.

Understanding which type you have first

is actually the most important step.

The three most common questions I get in the clinic

Q1. My pores looked smaller after just one session - will they completely disappear if I keep getting treatments?

A. Honestly, that's difficult to achieve.

Peeling clears out keratin and sebum,

but it doesn't tighten the pore walls themselves.

With consistent treatments, maintaining

a 'less visible state' is possible.

Q2. How often and how many sessions should I get?

A. It depends on sebum production, but

typically we set a basic course of

5-6 sessions at 2-4 week intervals.

After that, you can continue with

maintenance sessions once a month.

Too frequent treatments can backfire,

so it's important to stick to proper intervals.

Q3. My skin gets red and stings after peeling - is this normal?

A. Mild erythema from the day of treatment

until the next day is a normal reaction.

But if stinging persists beyond 48 hours

or if there's exudate, there's a possibility of over-exfoliation.

In that case, you should switch to calming care,

and it's safe to stop all retinol and scrubs

for about a week.

I'll continue with deeper insights in the next article. This was Dr. Wi Young-jin.