Acne Redness: Is Ointment Actually Bad?
The claim that you shouldn't apply recovery ointment on acne redness is simply not true. Here's a clear breakdown of what actually causes redness — and how to treat it properly.
Don't Believe the Myth That You Shouldn't Apply Recovery Ointment on Acne Redness
💡 Before You Read — Quick Q&A
Q. Isn't it better to apply nothing at all on acne redness?
A. Not quite. Redness is a signal that your skin is actively healing. Supporting that recovery with Moisturizing and regenerative ingredients actually helps reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation and Scarring.
Q. If the redness lingers for a long time, is it just my skin type?
A. The cause depends on the type of redness. Whether it's vascular in nature or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation requires a different approach entirely.
📌 Key Takeaway
Redness is a sign of healing — and recovery ointment is recommended during this phase.
What Is Acne Redness?
Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) refers to
the redness that remains after an Acne lesion heals,
caused by residual vascular dilation and inflammatory response
in the affected area.
Among common Acne marks, the brown discoloration is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH),
while the red discoloration is PIE — a vascular issue.
The two differ in origin and require entirely different treatment approaches.
Why Redness Lingers — Don't Interrupt the "Healing Signal"
This is one of the most common misconceptions I see.
Many people view Acne redness as something that simply needs to be "eliminated."
But the truth is,
that redness is actually your skin's way of signaling that it's repairing damaged tissue.
Let me explain in more detail.
When Acne ruptures or becomes inflamed,
the surrounding skin tissue sustains some degree of damage.
In response, your body increases blood supply to that area
in order to initiate repair.
During this process, capillaries dilate,
which is what appears as redness on the surface of the skin.
In other words, redness is your skin's way of saying,
"Repair work is still in progress here."
The common advice to apply nothing during this time
is usually intended to mean "avoid irritants" —
but this is where things get a bit nuanced.
Ingredients that support Moisturizing and cellular Recovery are not irritants.
In fact, they're more like supplying raw materials
to help the construction finish faster.
Active ingredients found in recovery ointments —
such as Dexpanthenol and Allantoin —
promote cell regeneration and protect the skin's moisture barrier.
When these ingredients accelerate the skin's recovery,
vascular dilation naturally subsides,
and redness fades more quickly.
To be straightforward:
"Don't apply anything to Acne marks" is not entirely wrong,
but it applies specifically to irritating ingredients.
Recovery ointments are the exception to that rule.
While every case is different,
I generally recommend applying a thin layer of a gentle recovery ointment
for the first 1–2 weeks following an Acne breakout.
After that, we assess the skin condition
and determine whether vascular laser treatment is warranted.
👨⚕️ Key Summary from Dr. Wi Young-jin:
Redness is a signal that your skin is healing.
Using recovery ointment appropriately during this phase
speeds up recovery and reduces the risk of hyperpigmentation.
"Don't apply anything" applies only to irritating ingredients.
Recovery and Moisturizing ingredients are actually what your skin needs most during this time.
Treatment Approach Differs by Type of Redness
Here's something important to keep in mind:
not all redness is the same.
It can broadly be categorized into two types.
Category | PIE (Vascular Redness) | PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation) |
|---|---|---|
Color | Bright red or pink | Brown or tan |
Cause | Capillary dilation, increased blood flow | Excess melanin production |
When pressed | Color temporarily fades | No change in color |
Laser treatment | Vascular laser (e.g., V-Beam) | Pigment laser, Laser toning |
Recovery ointment efficacy | Effective in the early recovery phase | Limited (no direct effect on pigmentation) |
Natural recovery time | 3 months – 1 year | 6 months – several years (longer without treatment) |
Many people refer to both types simply as "Acne marks" without distinguishing between them —
but the treatment approach is completely different.
For PIE, or vascular redness,
we typically start with recovery ointment management in the early phase
and monitor progress.
If redness persists beyond 3 months, vascular laser treatment is considered.
We've had many patients who saw little improvement after 10 sessions elsewhere,
but achieved satisfying results in just 2–3 sessions at our clinic
after an accurate diagnosis and proper classification.
The difference isn't the device — it's the precision of the diagnosis.
For PIH, or brown discoloration,
recovery ointment has limited benefit.
Since this is a pigmentation issue rather than a vascular one,
brightening skincare ingredients or laser-based treatment is the appropriate approach.
One important point worth emphasizing:
it's quite common for both types to be present simultaneously.
In those cases, treatment must be sequenced correctly —
address the vascular component first, then target the pigmentation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. Can I use recovery ointment if I still have active acne?
A. This is a bit nuanced.
Applying a thick, oil-heavy recovery ointment over active Acne
can clog Pores and potentially trigger more breakouts.
Recovery ointment should be applied thinly and only to areas
where active inflammation has already resolved —
in other words, on the red marks left behind after the Acne has settled.
Rather than applying it all over, we recommend a targeted, spot-application approach.
Q2. How many laser sessions are needed for redness?
A. On average, 3 to 5 sessions are recommended,
though this varies depending on the depth and extent of the redness
as well as your skin type.
Sessions are typically spaced 2 to 4 weeks apart.
One practical note worth mentioning:
using recovery ointment alongside laser treatment
can significantly speed up the healing process.
The laser procedure itself isn't the finish line —
in many cases, post-procedure Aftercare is what truly determines the outcome.
Q3. I developed breakouts after applying recovery ointment. Why did that happen?
A. It depends on the specific formulation.
Some recovery ointments contain lanolin or wax-based ingredients
that may not be suitable for Acne-prone skin.
In that case, switching to a lightweight, non-comedogenic recovery product
is the better option.
Not all recovery ointments are created equal.
Choosing the right formulation for your skin type makes all the difference.
This has been Dr. Wi Young-jin.
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