Why Philtrum Hair Removal Never Seems to Work — There's a Real Reason
Male philtrum beard hair has deep follicles that 755nm wavelength alone cannot effectively reach. Learn how and why the GentleMax Pro Plus, which uses the 1064nm wavelength, makes a real difference.
Why Philtrum Hair Removal Never Seems to Work — There's a Real Reason
This is Dr. Wi Young-jin from BeautysDoctors.
💡 Before You Read — Key Questions Answered
Q. If the laser device is high-quality, shouldn't it work well regardless?
A. It's not about the machine — it's about the wavelength. For deep follicles like male beard hair, you need the 1064nm wavelength, not 755nm, to achieve effective results.
Q. Why is philtrum hair removal so much harder than other areas?
A. Philtrum beard hair has some of the deepest follicles on the face. If the laser wavelength doesn't penetrate far enough, it simply won't reach the root.
"Between 755nm and 1064nm, deep male beard follicles absolutely require the 1064nm wavelength."
— Dr. Wi Young-jin (Beautystone Clinic, Seoul)
There's a Real Reason Why 10 Sessions at 755nm Still Don't Clear It
To be honest,
we see quite a few patients who say, "I've had laser hair removal so many times, but my philtrum just won't clear up."
Other areas improved, but the philtrum still looks shadowy and dark.
This may not simply be a matter of having "thick beard hair."
To explain how laser hair removal works in simple terms:
the laser penetrates the skin and gets absorbed by the melanin pigment in the hair follicle, converting into heat energy,
which then destroys the follicle cells.
The key is that the laser must reach the depth where the follicle actually sits.
Here's one critical factor:
each wavelength penetrates the skin to a different depth.
The 755nm (Alexandrite) wavelength is most effectively absorbed in the superficial to mid layers of the skin.
The 1064nm (Nd:YAG) wavelength, on the other hand, penetrates significantly deeper —
reaching as far as 4 to 6mm beneath the skin surface.
Male beard follicles typically sit at a depth of 3 to 5mm.
That's in a completely different league from fine facial hair on women or body hair on the arms and legs.
The philtrum in particular has a high density of hair with follicles positioned relatively deep.
What makes it tricky is that
755nm does penetrate to some extent.
So it's not completely ineffective —
but it doesn't deliver enough energy to fully destroy the follicle at the root.
Think of it like food that's only half-cooked.
The GentleMax Pro Plus
allows the use of both 755nm and 1064nm wavelengths within a single device.
The reason "Max" is in the name isn't just marketing —
it reflects the ability to switch between two wavelengths depending on what each patient needs.
For deep, coarse beard hair like that in the philtrum, setting to 1064nm
is what allows us to properly target the follicle all the way down to the root.
👨⚕️ Key Takeaway from Dr. Wi Young-jin:
Male philtrum beard hair has deep follicles. The 755nm wavelength struggles to deliver sufficient energy at that depth, which is why results can plateau even after multiple sessions. That's exactly why we choose the 1064nm wavelength on the GentleMax Pro Plus. It's not about having a better machine — it's about selecting the right wavelength for the job.
So Who Has Actually Seen Results with This Approach?
It does vary case by case, but here's how I typically approach it.
For first-time patients, I start by assessing their skin tone, hair color, beard thickness, and follicle depth.
For those with lighter skin and darker beard hair, 755nm often delivers quite good results on its own.
However, for patients with darker skin tones, or those with dense and coarse beard hair,
I shift the emphasis toward 1064nm for the procedure.
One common misconception I hear is that
1064nm is always the superior choice — but that's not accurate.
For lighter skin with shallower follicles, 755nm's higher melanin absorption rate is actually more efficient.
That's precisely why the GentleMax Pro Plus — with both wavelengths available —
allows us to respond flexibly to a wide variety of cases.
We've had patients who saw no results after 10 sessions elsewhere,
and after simply adjusting the wavelength setting here, showed noticeable improvement within just 2 to 3 sessions.
We didn't change the machine. We changed the wavelength.
That said, this approach isn't without its considerations.
Because 1064nm has a relatively lower melanin absorption rate,
the energy output per session needs to be higher to achieve effective results.
This can mean slightly more discomfort during the procedure,
and transient skin reactions such as redness may require closer monitoring.
However, the GentleMax Pro Plus features a built-in DCD (Dynamic Cooling Device)
that continuously cools the skin surface throughout the procedure,
which significantly reduces the discomfort most patients experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. Can post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occur after philtrum hair removal?
A. It's a possibility we can't rule out entirely.
Patients with darker skin tones, or those who receive treatment during periods of high UV exposure,
can occasionally experience temporary hyperpigmentation.
In most cases, this resolves naturally within a few weeks to a few months,
but diligent sun protection after the procedure is absolutely essential.
Consistently applying Sunscreen is the simplest and most effective way to prevent this.
Q2. How many sessions does philtrum hair removal typically require?
A. We generally recommend a baseline of 6 to 8 sessions,
but honestly, individual variation is significant.
Because follicles follow a growth cycle, they can't all be eliminated at once —
follicles in the anagen (growth), catagen (regression), and telogen (resting) phases each need to be targeted at the right time.
Male beard hair typically requires 1 to 2 more sessions than female body hair,
and the philtrum in particular should be considered one of the most time-intensive areas to treat.
Q3. Doesn't shaving make beard hair grow back thicker? Should I let it grow out before hair removal?
A. The idea that shaving makes hair grow thicker is actually a myth.
Shaving does not change the follicle itself.
In fact, before laser hair removal, you should shave 1 to 2 days prior to your appointment.
If the hair above the skin surface is too long, the laser energy gets consumed at the surface before it can reach the follicle.
Coming in with freshly shaved, short hair ensures the laser energy is delivered efficiently to the follicle.
We always recommend a thorough consultation before committing to any procedure.
Choosing the right wavelength can make all the difference in your results.
This has been Dr. Wi Young-jin.
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